Loja by the Water: A Genuine Goan Getaway

Our first brush with Goan beaches was at Arambol back in 2012, which was a typical Goan holiday of beaches, beer, and a buzzing party atmosphere. This year we returned to the sunshine state in search of a different experience - a quieter one - which we found at the beautiful Loja by the Water.

What the Loja felt like

The Loja is an intimate cabin just right for a couple or a single traveller. Slanting red-tiled roof, a wall painting on one corner, and cool red-peroxide floor as you step in - I loved the earthy feel. The cabin is divided into a living area and a kitchenette with a dining table. The bathroom is spacious and convenient.  There are two foldable beds to make good use of space, and a lovely view from the large windows. Even the walls are adorned with watercolour paintings of the property.

There is everything one might need to cook simple meals - an induction stove, essential utensils, oil and spices, and pretty crockery - all quite high-end and in good condition. I felt I was staying with family and not at a commercial property - which is exactly what one looks for in Airbnb stays.

The house faces a shallow lake fed by the Mapusa River, a tributary of the Mandovi River. Your very own swimming pool! A sluice gate controls the flow of water into the lake. When the gates stay open, there is a soothing gurgling sound. It adds to the symphony of birdsong in the morning and cicadas' buzz after sundown.

Our only neighbours were a fisherman and his son, who stayed in a cottage nearby. I'd often see them fishing during the day.

Buy a fresh catch of prawns from the father and son team who fish in the lake. ~Art by Seema Misra 

 

The front porch of the cottage faces the lake. I loved sitting here in an armchair and watching flying fish disturb the idyllic reflections on the lake. Sunsets on the lake, drench it with various shades of pink and blue. The cicadas start their evening riyaz. Flies begin to congregate around all available light sources. Mosquitoes launch their disciplined offensive (between 5 to 7 in the evening). And I would finally move indoors. ~Art by Seema Misra

A Slice of Goan history

Rita, the owner of the property, mentions a short history about the place on the Airbnb profile:

The Loja (shop/store in Portuguese) on the water’s edge was an early trading post. Canoas (boats) exchanged salt and tiles for farm produce bound for village fairs. Restored, it’s now a self-contained space in the same rural waterfront setting, tranquil yet only 20 minutes from Panjim.

The whole stay is seamlessly managed. Rita and the property manager Vincent both ensure that all the practical aspects are taken care of. Vincent knows everyone in the community. We would chat with him about our plans and find him a storehouse of information. He helped us with transport, directions, and getting supplies so that our stay was comfortable.

Things to do at the Loja by The Water

The Loja is a place to enjoy the rustic pleasures of village life:

• Walking around the village early in the morning.
• House gazing - every road is flanked by the most captivating houses.
• Birdwatching.
• Sampling aromatic freshly-baked Goan bread with spicy fish curries.
• Exploring the chapels and churches at every corner.
• Reading a book on a quiet afternoon.
• Swimming in the lake.

We also explored some islands in the Mandovi river and headed out for a late evening on the Calangute beach (all within drivable distance).  What I loved most were the ferries to unexplored islands with no tourists in sight (except the two of us!). And beautiful homes.

My morning walk took me through scenic roads flanked by centuries-old Portuguese houses, each one trying to tell a story. Some are abandoned and taken over by nature, some have interesting statues on the rooftop, others boast intricate grill patterns on windows, and several have spooky toys tied to trees to ward off evil (or people who love good toys!). ~Art by Seema Misra 

 During the walk, I bumped into locals taking their pets for a walk, met school children waiting for their bus, discovered chapels and old churches in street corners, and encountered the fisherman selling his catch of the day in an ice-box strapped to his bike. No chain stores and high rises to spoil the view here. ~Art by Seema Misra 

St. Anne Church

St. Anne church is a hidden gem in the quiet Olaulim village. We found it while riding around Pomburpa village, during our stay at the Loja. In the evening, churchgoers gather here for mass. The rest of the day, the Church stands quietly. Witnessing life passing by for the last 266 years or so. The gentle sway of trees, the white of the church, and the slightly overgrown and abandoned feel of the garden in front of it ... something wild and peaceful.

Saint Anne was the mother of Mary and grandmother of Jesus. She is the patron of housewives, women in labour, cabinet makers and miners. Her emblem is a door (I tried to find out why, but couldn't get anything in the Google abyss). The most widely known shrines of Saint Anne is Saint Anne De Beaupre in Quebec, Canada. (source)

A plaque provides a short history of the church: It was built in 1752, as a chapel affiliated with the parish of Pomburpa. It was elevated into a separate parish on May 7, 1985.

Note Parish - (In the Christian Church) A small administrative district typically has its own church and a priest or pastor.

Reaching the Loja in Goa

The house is about 11 km from Panjim, the capital of Goa and 8kms from Mapusa, famous for its Friday Market. You can book the property here.

My paintings up at Loja