Coffee, Cardamom, Campfire, and Calmness at Hema Koota

Hema Koota is an authentic homestay that offers the simple pleasures of life (delicious food, friendly people, and nature) making for a perfect weekend getaway.

 "Old houses, I thought, do not belong to people ever, not really, people belong to them." ~ Gladys Taber

Every year, the onset of Christmas vacations heralds an exodus in Bangalore. Some companies shut down for the year-end. IT employees try to use up their remaining leaves. Everyone has a reason to head out for their last travel of the year.

We too decided to drive to the hills to enjoy the winter chill and the coffee harvest season. While scrolling through listings on travel websites I came across Hema Koota in Hassan. Their website had a gallery of beautiful photos, with one of an old railway track that caught my eye. I had a vague recollection of reading about this trek somewhere, but somehow never got to find out more about it. Reading up further, I saw that they served set menus with only authentic Malnad cuisine at this place. Being a foodie and always interested in exploring authentic offbeat cuisines in a natural setting, it sealed the deal for me, and we finalized Hemakoota for our vacation trip.

Bougainvillea and Birdsong

 

“A huge, purple bell, with three tender flowerets in its heart, ensconced in a crown of twigs. A sunbeam fell on the purple flower and made it glow red. The whole thing looked like a tiny world in itself, a fantastic world of flower and fire, light and silence." -- Bougainvillea” ― Sarim Baig, Saints, and Charlatans

After a leisurely drive from Bangalore, we reached Attihalli late afternoon. The last leg of our journey took us past a pond with white lilies, a quaint bus stop, and an ancient stone temple, up a road that ended in three houses. Two of these belonged to Mr and Mrs Gautham, our hosts for the stay.

Our rooms were in the newer house with an inviting veranda that opens into a well-kept courtyard garden. Bougainvillaea flowers spilled over the entrance creating a festive feel. Behind the house were paddy fields and plantations with coffee, cardamom, and pepper. Birds chirped all day, gathering around the fruit trees. Butterflies flitted about the flowers in the courtyard. It felt like a page out of a storybook!

Our rooms were large, with a king-size bed and a single bed. There was a small functional kitchen with a fridge, basic dishes, washbasin and even a music speaker system along with a dining area for evening get-togethers. Everything was clean and functional. Meals were served in the older, ancestral house next door where our hosts lived, lending a warm homely character to the stay

Savouring a Slice of Authentic Malnad Cuisine

En route, we had a disastrous breakfast at one of the many highway restaurants. Tormented by dust and hunger, we were more than looking forward to lunch. On reaching the homestay, Mr Gautham welcomed us and after settling in we walked over a few steps to their home for our meal.

Anyone who's a chef, who loves food, ultimately knows that all that matters is: 'Is it good? Does it give pleasure?' Anthony Bourdain

We were served fragrant Pulao, crispy Kori Rotti, Chicken Gassi, Chicken Pepper Fry, vegetable Kurma, sautéed green beans, and the most heavenly pineapple chutney/pickle which seemed to pack all the flavors possible, a perfect marriage of the tanginess of pineapple with the heat of red chilies. Our meal ended with a bowl of fruit custard. This was as satisfying a meal as it could get, full of heart, served with warmth and consumed with joy.

This meal set the tone for the rest of our stay – every meal was carefully prepared by Mrs. Gautham, who is indeed a mistress of spices. Her melt-in-your-mouth idiyappam is one of the best I’ve had. We enjoyed Thatte Idlis with rice that’s ground in a pestle and mortar and Neer Dosas that were unbelievably thin. The freshness of the vegetables, the perfectly balanced chutneys, sweet coconut milk preparation, and chicken balls in nuanced coconut gravy, all left me licking my fingers in a fulfilling emotion  that only food prepared with love can bring

As a family of foodies, we all look for authentic food while travelling. And, Mrs Gautham’s motherly cooking and warmth stole our hearts. She and her husband were on the move all day. Despite a recent slip disk, Mrs Gautham prepared all our meals with minimal help. Though we said were fine with simple meals, each preparation was different, diverse in variety and cooked to perfection.

Bonfire Under a Moonlit Sky

During the evenings, we’d sit by the bonfire in our courtyard. Both evenings, there were delicious snacks to go with our wine and whiskey. Round slices of potatoes batter fried to crisp, boiled eggs flavoured with chopped onions, and mixed veg pakodas. Whenever we think of our stay in Malnad, Mrs Gautham’s fragrant dishes will always come to mind!

Time Slows Down

This pristine corner of the world has limited connectivity – only Jio and BSNL networks work here. For two days I left my phone in the room. In fact, the entire family was away from technology. Time took on a granular quality – mornings stretched leisurely with the sun, afternoons slowed down with endless cups of fresh filter coffee, and dusk was marked by cowherds returning home.

Things to do at Hema Koota Home Stay

My father considered a walk among the mountains as the equivalent of churchgoing. -Aldous Huxley

There’s a lot to do around the homestay:

• Walk to the village and send a few letters from the post office.
• Visit the temple behind the homestay.
• Walk in the plantation and paddy fields.
• Play carrom.
• Go birdwatching in the morning.
• Hike or drive to Mookanmane falls. It is close by (4 km) and often quite deserted. The graceful, wide fall is flanked by dense forests and you must walk a slippery path for good views.

For a longer trip, there are plenty of options within an hour’s drive. Gautham can help you with planning your visits, booking a jeep/open van as well as tips on the time to visit.

“If you truly love nature, you will find beauty everywhere.” Laura Ingalls Wilder[/caption]

• Mallali waterfall is about an hour’s drive from the homestay. The fall is at its best during the monsoons.
• Patla Betta mountaintop offers a panoramic view of the valley. When we visited it, some of the hills were dry … the ochre shades contrasted with the forest covered hills further away. You can trek to the viewpoint or hire a jeep.
• Bisile Ghat with its winding roads, scenic viewpoints, lush green vistas, and biodiversity offer the best of Western Ghats. Keep half a day to explore the jungle and soak in the wilderness.
• Have you heard of the forbidden Green Route Trek that trails along the Sakleshpura railway track? From Hema Koota, you can enjoy a smaller version of this trek. A 3 km walk to the railway track through thick forest overgrowth leads to an old railway bridge and tunnels. Spend time walking along the track and enjoying the mesmerizing views. It is an adventure not to be missed.
• Kaginahare Fort ruins is a more of a viewpoint than a fort. It is a good point to catch the sunset.

The Story of Hema Koota

In Kannada, Hema means gold and Koota is a gathering. So literally this place makes for a golden gathering. The first part of the house was built by Gautham’s grandfather in 1935 and named Hema Koota. Later, in 1952 an extension was added.

Reaching Hema Koota Home Stay

The property is in Attihalli village in Hassan Taluk. It’s a 4-hour drive (without stops) from Bengaluru. You can book the property here.

 

 

An Artist’s Travel in Bhutan: 8 Awesome Things To Do

 

Bhutan is the place dreams are made of - the heaven reached after a lifetime of goodness. It was a closed country for the longest time, and this isolation can still be seen in the pristine beauty of the country and the simple living of its people.

Every visitor to Bhutan leaves with a lighter and happier heart. It can be quite challenging to decide what to do during your stay in Bhutan. So, I've curated some of the best experiences and interesting things to do, to enrich your stay in the land of happiness.

1. Hike to Tiger's Nest Monastery

Taktsang Monastery, better known as the Tiger's Nest, is an ethereal Buddhist monastery. You have to trek through craggy mountain trails to reach the red and white monastery with beautiful wooden windows and doors. Along the way are unforgettable views of the emerald-green Paro valley. This monastery is a spiritual beacon and was built as a meditation centre. Legend has it that centuries ago Guru Rinpoche flew on a tiger and landed here to meditate. So it is no surprise, that almost every traveller stops here for the view of a lifetime.

2. Get Your Customized Stamp in Thimphu Post Office

For unique travel memorabilia, visit the Bhutan Post Office and get your own stamp. Use your favourite Bhutan travel profile pic (carry them on a pen drive) or get one taken on the spot. The whole process takes about 15 minutes. You could buy some postcards, and send greetings to friends and family using your postal stamps. Couple this with a visit to the postal museum in the same complex.

3. Museum Hop in Thimphu

Thimphu, the capital city of Bhutan, is also its cultural hub. There are a plethora of museums here for you to deep dive into the culture and history of the country. Learn about the rich weaving traditions at the Royal Textile Academy. The museum has a workshop where you meet weavers and see them in action. Ensure you plan for at least a 2-hour stop at the Simply Bhutan Living Museum. Here you will actually experience a traditional Bhutanese lifestyle. National Folk Heritage Museum, National Textile Museum, Bhutan Library, and Terton Gallery are other attractions worth a visit.

4. Raft on Paro Chhu River

Drift on the clear glacial waters of the gentle Paro Chhu River as it meanders through Paro Valley. You will get beautiful views of the famous Paro Dzong and even go under the quaint wooden bridge, Nyamai Zam. The Rafting activity and leisurely exploration of Paro dzong take a day. Keep a few days to soak in the charming Paro valley - trust me your heart will just want to stay here forever. 

5. Go Fishing in Bumthang Valley

The best fishing spots are near Jakar town. Talk to locals, and head out to a quiet spot. You can spend hours fishing and soak in the silence, beauty, and majesty of the Himalayan mountains. Bhutan has about 41 endemic species of fish.  Like everything else in Bhutan, there are several rules to ensure their protection. You can fish only in specific rivers. Fishing is prohibited on festivals, holy days, and within 1 km. of the monasteries. Keep these rules in mind, while planning your trip to avoid last-minute disappointments.

6. Rejuvenate Yourself Through Hot Spring Therapy

Bhutan is a spiritual land. This spiritual core makes it a great place to relax and heal. Head out to one of the many hot springs found in this land.  Gasa Tshachu, located in Western Bhutan, has three bathhouses. It is perfect for a good soak. To add to the experience, trek to the spring from Damji village. The six-hour trek will take you through scenic villages and bamboo forests.

7. Drive to Chele La Pass

Drive or ride a motorbike to the scenic Chele La pass. Keep aside a day to spend amongst nature in this pristine mountain pass located between Paro and Haa Valley. There are several hiking trails in this pass. Locals come up here to put up prayer flags. On clear days, you can see the enchanting Jomolhari peak.

8. Sample Authentic Bhutanese Cuisine

It is not difficult to get Bengali, North Indian, and Nepali food in the country - thanks to the cooks. However, when in Bhutan, it is best to eat like a Bhutanese. Emma Datshi is the most popular dish - a simple cheese and chilli concoction that will blow your socks off. Paired with Bhutanese brown rice, it is irresistible. This preparation is also made with potatoes (Kewa Datshi), mushrooms (Shamu Datshi), beans, palak, and mixed vegetables. For meat lovers, there is a version with cheese, beef, and a special dried white chilli called

Shakam Shukam Datshi. Also, the chewy dried beef and radish stew (Shakam Paa) is a lovely warm dish to have on cold nights. If you can handle spices try the chilli sauce, Ezay. It is a good idea to talk to people, stay in homestays, and ask for food recommendations - you'll end up with a host of cherished food memories.

These are just a snapshot of the delights Bhutan has to offer to a traveller. Whether you have an activity-packed stay or a relaxed stay - you will leave with a bit of Bhutan in you. And, amongst the hustle-bustle of daily life, you'll just need to close your eyes and be back at the Himalayan mountains.

Me In Action

Photo Essay

Words of Inspiration

Tip

Browse through Amazon, and read some books on Bhutan in preparation for your journey. I read & quite liked this memoir before my trip: Beyond the Sky and Earth: a Journey into Bhutan by Jamie Zeppa.