La Campagne - A Soulful Getaway at Rustling Bamboo

A walk in nature walks the soul back home. 

Miles of farmland. Rain-drenched paths. Bucolic setting. Fresh food. And, a beautifully designed house to stay in. These are the kind of getaways that best nourish your soul. 

When you add to that the gentle warmth of the hosts of this charming place, called Rustling Bamboo Cottage, it makes for a truly memorable stay. 

Someone from the host family (the Sunaads) stops by every few days, making it feel more like a home than a hotel. Twilight brings conversations in the gazebo - with the changing hues of sun and the distant call of the peacock adding to the natural allure. Aishwarya's keen observations of village life, and her many efforts to change things for the better, spark that light in me to continue being a part of this humbling community.

Geeta Sunaad, the artist behind the house with high ceilings, huge picture windows, and sunlit, alfresco bathrooms shares her stories of Coorg with us, along with home-cooked meals and family favourites, that we've relished to the last bite. Even the tea seemed to take a magical palate lit with the warmth of these shared stories. Chicken cooked the Coorgi style with whole pepper from the farms is my favourite, while my husband loves the creamy (malai) chicken korma with balanced flavours of Kasuri methi.

Monsoon showers and cool breezes inspire us to go on long walks ... through fields of sunflowers, marigolds, bananas, and sugarcane among the ones we make out. There's enough to see within an hour's drive here - historical Mysore city, Bandipur Safari, Kabini Wildlife Sanctuary, and even the lesser-known Nugu Backwaters (dam) that feel almost an inlanders seabeach. 

On the property live Anita and Venkatesh. They have three children, two dogs, three goats, and other pets at times. It all makes for a lively stay with something or the other happening all the time - a refreshing change from seeking drama on Netflix. Aishwarya is trying to start a Permaculture farm in the adjoining land, it is startling how activities relating to farming feel so different and real in person. The map is certainly different from the territory!

On our last night at the farm, Sunaad Raghuram visits us. We are a bit apprehensive as he's a famous author and journalist, but from a warm and informal hello, we know we have found a kindred spirit. He regales us with myriad a tale from his time in the wild and growing up in Mysore, and we realize that more than his illustrious career it is his command over chronicling of the times that stands him apart.

We leave the stay refreshed, with farm fruits and vegetables and have made some wonderful new friends and anecdotes and stories that linger long past.

Driving Through Mysore

A stop at Channapatna - Gombegala Ooru, which translates directly into “toy town”.

Though we've crossed Channapatna on most trips to Coorg, somehow these shops flash by like a commercial outlet. This was the first time I stopped and sketched and explored and gained some funny experiences along the way.

"The origin of these toys can be traced to the reign of Tipu Sultan who invited artisans from Persia to train the local artisans in the making of wooden toys." Says Wikipedia

Liquid, flowing, fluid, poetic ... Bamboo trees at Rustling Bamboo Cottage.

Link: Rustling Bamboo Cottage

Jagannath Temple - HSR Layout - Bangalore

 

Sketching at the Jagannath Temple in Bangalore yesterday ... the first HSR group meet. Hoping to schedule more of these in the coming weeks.

While this temple cannot hold a candle to the one in Puri, this particular road is clustered with four to five temples and is bustling with activity on a Sunday morning.

In A Quiet Moment

"We tend to go through our days with our noses to the grindstone, completing tasks, staying on top of household chores, jumping from one thing to the next. The days blend into each other. (especially during this pandemic!)

What makes some days special?" From my LEO BABAUTA newsletter. 

Watching the sunlight does it for me. This morning I sat in my favourite tea shop - snacking on vada pav and sipping hot ginger tea. Out in the street life unfolded - leisurely and predictably - the same person I saw last week walked past with a yoga mat. The auto walla sunbathed. And cyclists and runners went past. 

These Sunday morning sketching sessions are what I look forward to all week. There's no goal. No plans. These quiet moments, maybe a tree shedding leaves, people all around me - that come close to the spiritual. The meditative. 

Hoi An In A Glass

 

Yesterday, during my night walk on the terrace, I was listening to Travel and Leisure India audio stories … having run out of my usual fiction podcasts. The episode was about Hoi An. As the author spoke about the delicious coffee, I was taken back to endless drinks that peppered my stay in Vietnam. From green tea and black coffee to iced beer and cocoa. 

Having stayed at home most of this year, I can't wait to travel again. Surrounded by trees. Away from my laptop. With just my sketch kit nearby. Till that happens, I've decided to open my travel sketchbooks and get transported to my favourite places. Sketching and travelling are so entwined, that unless I sketch in a city I feel I haven't experienced it.

One such memory is of the refreshing herbal drink at MótHộiAn. Adorned with a lotus stem and lemon leaf it was a welcome respite from the drugging heat. I can still taste the sweet floral notes of the drink and it brings back all the joys of strolling along the lantern-lit lanes flanked by yellow houses and flowering bougainvillaea trees. Now, as I paint it from memory and some photos, I think … there should be a 'Hoi An Yellow' shade of watercolour out there …

A Long Wait At The Post Office

 

One of the best things about being an urban sketcher is that waits are no longer annoying. The other day I was at the post office. There were about four people waiting for their turn at the speed post counter. And, suddenly without any explanation, they closed the shutters.

We could hear the officials talking away inside and some odd banging noises. After some time, one of the officials strolled up and said they are repairing the shutter.

After some odd 30 mins, we were asked to move to a back entrance. And, amidst the scuffle, the lines were formed again. An elderly gentleman finally found a seat - and was then informed that the person in charge of speed post was having lunch (at 11.30 AM!!)

The 2 hours odd wait to send out one parcel was much more tolerable because I was caught up doing this sketch!

Sips Of Coffee & Sunday Sketching

  

A cup of black coffee and an endless stream of people to sketch ... that's my kind of Sunday! This little Starbucks coffee store in an IT park is still open, frequented by the people who live in the apartments nearby, freelancers, and college kids looking for a private space with Wi-Fi. 

There are swaying date palms - imported from Dubai I'm sure - that add a plastic beauty to space. I miss the messy Bangalore trees, Red Splashed Palash and delicate Jacarandas and Gulmohar. 

Your Guide to Kalpa: Nothing to See and Everything to Experience

 “Why did we come to Kalpa? There is nothing to see here.” – A frustrated backpacker I met in Kalpa market.

Kinner Kailash mountain ranges in Kalpa

Kalpa is a sleepy little village a few kilometres above Reckong Peo, the administrative centre of Kinnaur valley. Peo has a major bus depot that provides connectivity to Spiti, Kinnaur, Manali, and Delhi. Travellers on their way to the Spiti Valley reach Reckong Peo exhausted and head to nearby Kalpa for a short recuperation – staying for a few hours to a day or two.
A couple of years ago, this village lay untouched by the tourist trails, and only a few adventurous foreigners would head here. The increasing interest in Spiti and Kinnaur valley has put the spotlight on this idyllic retreat. Several homestays, an HPTDC hotel with a studding view deck, and a few hotels have sprung up to cater to tourists. While you won’t find an ATM here, there is decent internet and mobile phone connectivity.

Things to do in Kalpa

Everywhere you go, you’ll have stunning views of the Kinner Kailash (or Kinnaur Kailasha) mountain. There’s a vertical rock formation on this mountain, which is believed to be the winter abode of Lord Shiva. Locals claim this sacred Shivling rock never gets covered with ice and changes colour throughout the day.

Kalpa offers simple pleasures in little things one may otherwise miss in a typical Himalayan sojourn, as they might feel too common: apple orchards in bloom, stately pine-nut and deodars, a small monastery, an intricately-carved temple and fort, and traditional Kinnauri houses. To see the mountain up close, go on the Kalpa to Chakka trek. There are the nearby Roghi village and a suicide point (where no one really committed suicide!) to hike or drive to.

Fort in Kalpa: This beautiful fort has exquisite Himachali wooden carvings.

Caption – Buddhist temple at Kalpa

Sketching and soaking in the local flavour

Kalpa trivia: the first vote in India was cast here!

When elections were held for the first time in the country, Kinnaur was the first region where polling was scheduled. The polling was held in phases and other parts of the country went to polls in February 1952. 97-year-old Negi and his wife Hira Mani (92), of Kalpa, were the first to cast a vote.

Best time to visit Kalpa

Winters offer a white wonderland and summers the lushness of a Himalayan village. I went in April, which was the best of both seasons – snowy vistas, very few tourists, and the beginning of the apple blossoms.

Reaching Kalpa by Public Transport (HRTC)

Shimla/Delhi > Reckong Peo > Kalpa

• Two buses run from Shimla till Reckong Peo (9 hours), one at 6 pm and another at 6 am. It is best to board the bus at ISBT stop so that you get space to keep your luggage.

Tip: You can pre-book a seat on the evening bus from Shimla to Reckong Peo.

• There is a direct bus from Delhi to Reckong Peo (18 hours) which you can book online.
• From Reckong Peo, regular buses ply to Kalpa. (40 minutes)

Buy some local chule (dry fruits) to tide you through treks and hikes.

Gokarna Beach Trek - With Plan The Unplanned

 Treks in India bring to mind snowy cliffs and deodar flanked paths of the Himalayas or the dense mountain peaks of Western Ghats. Which is why the Gokarna Beach trek (or hike if you are a purist) is a delightful surprise. The trail is along the coastline over rocky hills giving way to beautiful coconut tree fringed beaches.

Gokarna beach trek - Miles of golden sand beaches, jagged cliffs, outstanding sunset views, undiscovered coves, and quaint temples.

About Gokarna

Gokarna is a small coastal town in Karnataka, India. It is famous for the Mahabaleshwara Temple which houses the 'Atmalinga' making it a sacred pilgrimage for Shiva worshippers.

Gokarna Beach Trek and Camping: Plan the Unplanned

Several travel groups in Bangalore offer Gokarna beach treks. I went on one conducted by Plan The Unplanned. Despite the heat, I found the enchanting views and sometimes challenging terrain, made for an interesting trek.

• Difficulty: Easy/moderate
• Trekking distance: 10 km
• Trekking time: 11 a.m to 10:30 p.m
• Trail type: Beaches, rocky and forest trails
• Description: A hike along the coast with short stops at several beaches to bathe in the sea and explore the beach. Night stay in a beach camp followed by stops at Vibhooti falls.

 

Gokarna Beach trek trail: Paradise Beach, Half Moon Beach, Om Beach, Rock Climbing, Dolphin’s Point, Kudle Beach, and Gokarna Beach

Belekan beach

We started the trek at one of Gokarna's remotest beaches, Belekan beach. Belekan is a fishing village at port Tadadi. The sand here is covered with layers of black tar generated from fuel used by fishing boats - which is why you won't find any tourists bathing here.

 

“Collect Moments, Not Things.”

Paradise beach

From Belekan beach, we had a short 20-minute hike over a hill to reach Paradise beach. The fine sand peppered with black rocks fringed by palms and coconut trees makes for a heavenly retreat indeed. Since the beach is not accessible by road, it is clean and peaceful.

 

Lovely, isolated Paradise Beach [/caption] [caption id="attachment_2985" align="aligncenter" width="640"]

 

Kashti ka khamosh safar hai, Shaam Bhi hai tanhai bhi Door kinare par bajti hai, Lehron ki shehnai bhi

Half Moon beach

Half Moon beach is one of the prettiest beaches of Gokarna and the perfect spot to swim and play in the sea. The fine sand here does not stick to your body, unlike the sand of the eastern coast.

Half Moon Beach: A small, attractive cove with a lovely sweep of powdery sand. This lovely wind chime/dream catcher made from plastic bottles caught my attention - and reminded me of how important it is to carry water bottles and refill them. 

Half Moon beach: watermelons and mangoes, freshly cut, proved just the thing to snap us out of the heat-induced exhaustion.

[caption id="attachment_2984" align="aligncenter" width="640"] And, if you can rest on a hammock all the better!

Om beach

The trail from Half Moon beach to Om beach is the longest and most scenic bit of the hike. On the way, there is a short deviation leading to a huge rock called the Rock of Peace – it is the throne to witness one of the best sunsets. This spot is also known as the Om Beach sunset point. You will know why it’s named Rock of Peace only after you have experienced it.

We sat here for a while, gazing into the sea, watching boats pass by and waving at them, looking out for and not finding any Dolphins, and waiting for the sun to set.

 

Sunset point on Om beach

Finally, when the sun started to touch the horizon we headed back to Om beach which was unexpectedly empty and beautiful. The most famous of the Gokarna beaches, this is a little hippie oasis. Since it was off-season, most of the shacks and shops were closed. If you like watersports, this is the beach to try out banana boat rides and other fun activities.

 

Om beach - a famous stretch of sand that twists and turns over several kilometres to resemble the outline of an Om symbol.

Kudle beach

The walk from Om beach to Kudle beach is a leisurely one over steps, a concrete path, and an open hilly road. By the time we walked this bit, it was late evening and there was a full moon in the sky.

With easy access via road, this beach is a popular tourist spot and offers a host of eating joints with seafood and continental cuisine. We had dinner at this beach. While a section of our group walked from here to Gokarna main beach, the rest of us took an auto to our campsite on the Gokarna main beach.

Camping at Gokarna main beach

After a long day of walking along the sea, we came back to our campsite and found a cosy bonfire waiting for us. Sitting by the sea, watching the moonlight highlight the waves, I thought to myself, I could fall asleep to the waves crashing every night.

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